The Pitiful Selection of Wines Distributed in Texas
Perhaps the primary reason consumers benefit by access to out-of-state products is that the traditional three-tier system that puts products on the shelves in most states is terrible at providing consumers with choices. Consider the state of Texas.In the past 24 months, the Texas Alcohol Beverage Commission, which overseas alcohol sales and distribution in the state, approved the sale of 27,500 wines for sale in Texas. The majority of those wines are made in the United States by the wineries located in a variety of states.
But consider this. In that same time period, the federal Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau approved 140,000 wines for sale in the United States…and those are just the imported wines the TTB approved in that 24 month period.
That means that there are more than 100,000 wines approved for sale in the United States in the past two years that consumers in Texas have absolutely no access to unless they are are able to buy and have shipped to them wines from out-of-state wine stores—the only places those 100,000 wines absents from the Texas market could possibly be found.
This situation put the lie to the claim often heard by opponents of wine shipments by out of state retailers that the three-tier system provides consumers with “unprecedented” choice. In fact, compared to what is available in the U.S. marketplace as a whole, the Texas three-tier system provides a nearly unprecedentedly pitiful choice of products.
This is an obvious propaganda piece (I wouldn’t call it an article) that uses some seemingly impressive numbers while ignoring several truths about those numbers. The posters have an obvious agenda as they site information that supports their goals but leaves out most of the story. Please remember that:
1) In the first paragraph, they use the word “Majority.” “Majority” only means over 50%. They don’t specify how much over 50%. Is it 50.1%?
2) A great many any of those “approved labels” are actually duplicates because a particular producer (often with several wines) often has more than one US importer and each importer has to have a federal Certificate of Label Approval (COLA) for each wine. (How many COLAS exist for each chateau in Bordeaux? For many, more than a dozen and sometimes many more. How many COLAs exist for each Burgundy or Rhone producer making as many as 20 distinct wines who could have as many as 20 different regional importers in the US? Could be as many as 400.)
3) Many of those wines are “buyer’s-own-brands” (private labels) that are not ever going to go into general distribution. Most of these private label wines are either from virtual wineries or from left-over juice a legit producer has after they blend their own wines. This sort of left-over juice is often sourced, along with lower-tier juice from co-ops, to be blended by virtual wineries. And many of these labels are gimmicks such as “The Bachelor Fantasy Suite Cabernet” (currently sitting on my desk) that it might be a community service to keep out of the market.
4) Many of these COLAs are for extremely limited production wines that are never going to be sold in more than a few states. (For instance, if a Burgundy producer makes one barrel (25 cases) of something, they generally will not send more than four or five cases (if that) to the US and it will get spread around to those few markets their often boutique importer deals with and not to other markets. Texas does get its share of those sorts of wines but there are a lot we don’t see because the importer specializes in the east coast or California and the wines are and have been spoken for so there is no chance of additional distribution. There are also a fair number of wines that come to Texas that folks in California or Florida may not see.)
5) Many of these wines are “Me Too” wines (yet another Provencal Rosé or NZ Sauvignon Blanc, often from a virtual winery) that are the wine industry equivalent of throwing-shit-at-the-wall to see what sticks. Often label approvals are given that are used once or twice or sometimes not at all. A COLA does not mean the wine ever got imported and if it did, even one case requires a COLA.
There is nothing “pitiful” about the selection of well over 100,000 wines potentially available at retail in Texas.
(Where did I get that provocative number? If you pull up all the granted wine label approvals for Texas from January 1, 1997 to January 1, 2017, on the TABC on-line data-base, the number is 133,405. And many active labels in Texas go back further than that 20 years. In fairness, remember that many of these approved wines are duplicates in the same ways sited above for federal label approvals.)
And these out-of-state-retail-shipper-wannabes completely ignore how much wine is damaged-in-shipment (much more often cooked than broken) when shipped via FedEx or UPS (the two most common carriers) from state to state or even with-in states. And that in dealing with out-of-state retail shippers, Texas consumers have little recourse if something goes wrong.
Texas law prohibits only out-of-state retailers from shipping to consumers in Texas. There is a legal path for out-of-state wineries to ship to consumers in Texas. And they don’t tell you that many of these NAWR members (and others) are and have been breaking the law by shipping to consumers in Texas anyway.
I’ve been tasting (and liking) English sparkling wines for a few years now … but only when I’m in Europe. Noe that can change. Check out my notes (on the Spec’s Fine Wine site) on the Ridgeview English Sparkling wines which have just arrived in Texas.
Good News Out of Burgundy from the Drinks Business.
“Despite a challenging year the president of the Bureau Interprofessionnel des Vins de Bourgogne has said the situation is more stable now the harvest is in. In terms of both the size of the vintage and its quality, Louis-Fabrice Latour (pictured), president of the BIVB, told the drinks business there was a great deal of relief in many parts of Burgundy now that the wine was in tanks and being evaluated. He explained that the final figures on the size of the harvest were not yet in – and wouldn’t be until early spring next year in all likelihood – but overall the figures were probably going to be down 20% on 2015.” (Continue Reading)
In 1990, Joseph Henriot set aside one vat to add a portion of outstanding Blanc de Blancs each year, capturing the essence of every harvest in a sort of solera. The idea was to create a perpetual blend of 100% Chardonnay from 100% Cote de Blancs grands cru vineyards (Mesnil-sur-Oger, Chouilly, Avize and Oger)
In 2009, the first 1,000 magnums were drawn and put through the Champagne process. After another 5 years aging on the lees in Henriot’s cellars in Reims, the wine was disgorged and given a final dosage of less than 5 grams per liter. Each year, another 1,000 magnums will be released.
“Its dosage of less than 5g/l gives full rein to the aromas of its terroir. It is a beautiful pale yellow with golden highlights and a gently efferevescent mousse, leading into a bouquet of fresh butter and white flowers. Cuve 38 also reveals both mineral and slightly creamy notes underpinned by hints of liquorice. On the palate, its richness is elegant and there are avours of citrus and ripe apricot. Finally, the wine delivers elements of both honey and viennoiserie, redolent of the Henriot style.
From Bear Dalton:
HENRIOT Cuve 38, Champagne, NV ($669.74 per Magnum)
100% Chardonnay all from Grand Cru Vineyards fermented using Methode Champenoise from all Reserve solera wines bottled in Magnum only with a less-than-.5 dosage. Pale-gold-straw in color, fully sparkling; dry, medium-full-bodied with freshly balanced acidity and scant phenolics. Deep dense, unique wine. Pure expression of Chardonnay and chalk, mineral and yeast but most of all development. The wine evolves in the glass as if slowly flattens and warms. It really succeeds as wine, not just as sparkling wine. My first impression score was 94+. Three hours later it was 97. Two days later (the still 2/3s full magnum stored cold and tightly stoppered) it was 100. This is stunningly good, utterly unique Champagne that almost demands decanting to help it develop in a reasonable time. Or you could keep it for a few years and then … WOW!
Only 2 magnums available only at Spec’s at 2410 Smith Street in Houston.