Wine-Of-the-Week: BODEGAS VOLVER Tempranillo, 2011

The web-site says “… a project developed and co-owned by Jorge Ordoñez and Rafael Cañizares.” I generally hate “projects.” When a  winemaker or wine salesman says he has a new “project,” it usually means he is working some kind of deal where “… we can make 8,000 cases of Cabernet that you can sell at $19.99 with good margins …” at which point I have already tuned out. There is usually a friend’s vineyard and a “virtual winery” or custom crush facility involved. Blah, blah, blah … Well, it seems that this is different. Bodegas Volver is an actual winery on a 247 acre vineyard site in La Mancha. Winery and vineyard are owned by winemaker Rafael Cañizares and wine salesman Jorge Ordonez. A real winery with real estate vineyards with a real (and talented) winemaker working in tandem with a knowledgable sales and marketing guy seems like more than a “project.”

BODEGAS VOLVER Tempranillo, La Mancha, 2011 ($13.49)VolverTempranillo
15% Alcohol. Estate-bottled, dry-farmed 100% Tempranillo from a single 72 acre vineyard (Finca Los Juncares) planted in 1957 on sand-over-clay-over-chalk yielding as little as 2 lbs. of grapes per vine. Malolactic fermentation and 18 months aging in all new French oak barrels before it is bottled unfiltered.   Purple in color with well-formed legs; dry, medium-full-bodied with freshly balanced acidity and medium-chewy phenolics.  Rich, ripe, and rounded with dark red fruit and notes of tobacco and subtle leather. Lovely freshness. Hints at garrigue. Fine old-world steak wine. BS: 90+.

Thinking about Wine:
Beer is made by men, wine by God. – Martin Luther

PLEASE check the EVENTS PAGE for my upcoming WINE 101 class beginning January 6th at the Wine School and the annual 2011 CRU CLASSÉ BORDEAUX TASTING on January 21st at the Crystal Ballroom at the Rice.

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